San Francisco, CA
Cole ValleyDespite its proximity to the Haight, anyone who has spent time in this small community knows Cole Valley has a distinct character all its own. "Community" is the operative word in this thin slice of San Francisco real estate, bordered on the west by Stanyan Street and the Sutro Forest, on the south by Tank Hill and on the east by Clayton Street. Residents are largely families and young professionals, though there is no trace of the snootiness that has affected other parts of the city. Most of the businesses in Cole Valley are of the mom-and-pop variety, in lieu of chain stores or franchises, and shop owners are outwardly supportive of each other.
Food and coffee are the specialties in Cole Valley. In the three-block commercial strip along Cole Street and part of Carl Street, there are more than a dozen restaurants and cafes, some of which draw visitors from around the Bay Area. EOS, for instance, is considered one of the city's top dining spots, while Zazie is a magnet for locals on weekends for brunch. For historians and old-timers, traces of Cole Valley's past are still visible. Above the Crepes on Cole awning, along the Carl Street side, remains the old sign for the Other Cafe, a comedy spot where Robin Williams and Dana Carvey performed before they hit the big time. Even more historic are the photos in the Kezar Bar and Restaurant dating from the early 1900s, when the region was home to dairy farms.
Though most visitors never make it past the restaurants and shops, Cole Valley does offer dramatic views of the city. The best spot is atop 600-foot-high Tank Hill, named for an old water tank stationed there in the late 1800s. The eucalyptus trees there were planted after the attack on Pearl Harbor to hide the water tank from bombers. To get to the hill's summit and panoramic viewpoint, walk up Shrader Street to Belgrave Street and turn left, taking it to the end.
Cole Valley may not be one of the city's most bustling tourist destinations, but it makes for a relaxing respite from the Haight, and there are enough attractions for a day's outing.
Though most visitors never make it past the commercial block in Cole Valley, there is one site worth visiting farther afield. In front of 1591 Shrader St. stands a carving in the trunk of an old Monterey cypress titled Angel of Hope. The tree had to be taken down after another tree on the other side of the driveway toppled during a windstorm in the mid-'90s, damaging nearby houses. The former owner of the house, philanthropist Pat Montandon, commissioned the carving of an angel.
At the corner of Shrader and Rivoli streets -- at 1401 Shrader St., to be exact -- sits a house designed by renowned architect Ira Kurlander. The first floor of the house was built in 1908 and was the home of Bernice Lane Brown, mother of former California Gov. and current Oakland Mayor Jerry Brown and Kathleen Brown.
On Halloween, the strip of Belvedere Street between Parnassus and 17th streets is blocked off as packs of kids gather to show off their costumes and celebrate the holiday. Another event takes place Easter Sunday in the park along Carl Street between Clayton and Cole streets, when many people from the neighborhood turn out in full Easter bonnets and other costumes.
Cole Valley Street Festival: Called the Heart of Cole Festival, this free annual celebration, usually held in October, features booths of arts and crafts (most by local artists), food from local eateries, activities for kids and live music.
Boulange de Cole Valley: In Parisian cafe style, Boulange is Cole Valley's people-watching, socializing center. The bakery and patisserie, owned by the same folks who run Boulangerie Bay Bread on Pine Street, specializes in pastries like croissants, eclairs, tarts and brioche, as well as sandwiches, soups and salads. Tartines, open-faced sandwiches, are popular, with choices ranging from the Canard (smoked duck with prunes) to the Jardin (be chamel sauce, eggplant, tomato, and gruyere cheese). Wash it all down with an espresso drink or an organic tea. 1000 Cole St., (415) 242-2442.
Burger Meister: What was once a crepery as well as a taqueria is now home to Burger Meister, decorated with whimsical painted burgers, hot dogs and fries on the walls. The Meister serves Niman Ranch beef, meaning there are no nasty hormones or antibiotics used, as well as garden burgers and a grilled-chicken salad. All come with basic fries, though it's worth trying the lemon-garlic fries. Top it off with a beer or an old-fashioned milkshake. The food is not gourmet, but it is filling. 86 Carl St., (415) 566-1274.
Cafe Cole: Sitting right on the edge of the Haight, Cafe Cole offers healthier treats than just coffee and pastries. The cafe serves shots of wheatgrass juice and fresh fruit juices and smoothies like the Hurricane, with banana, cinnamon, mango and apple juice, or the Flamenco, with tomato, carrot and red-pepper juice. Vegans can find cookies, sandwiches and calzones prepared especially for them, though the menu has meat options too. Internet access costs about $7 an hour. 609 Cole St., (415) 668-7771.
Cole Valley Cafe: One of the newest additions on the block, Cole Valley Cafe took over where Jammin' Java used to sit. This cafe has a more substantial menu than its predecessor, with basic deli sandwiches like corned beef or turkey, or more catered fare like lox sandwiches with avocado, onions, arugula and capers or veggie falafel wraps. There are some custom drinks like the Arctic Tundra (blended white chocolate with raspberry syrup) and the Java Blast (espresso, milk, vanilla syrup and whipped cream). 701 Cole St., (415) 668-5282.
Crepes on Cole: Make sure to come here with a sufficient appetite. Portions spill off the sides of the plate, whether you've ordered a mammoth green salad or a savory crepe with house potatoes. Crepe flavors are complex: a tofu crepe with vegetables in peanut sauce, or the cannelloni, with cheddar, cream cheese, cottage cheese, onions, mushrooms and marinara sauce. Dessert blintzes and crepes are filled with fruits, jellies, Nutella, the works. On weekends, Crepes on Cole, which was once The Other Cafe, can get quite packed at brunch time. The old Other Cafe sign is still visible high on the side of the building facing Carl Street. 100 Carl St. (at Cole Street), (415) 664-1800.
EOS Restaurant and Wine Bar: This popular Asian-fusion restaurant recently scrapped its traditional menu of main courses hovering in the $25 range in favor of small plates of which the most expensive is $16. Signature dishes include a tuna tower with slices of seared herb-encrusted tuna stacked on wonton chips, shiitake mushroom dumplings and bananamisu, a creamy tiramisu with caramelized bananas. Next door, EOS's wine bar offers the same menu, but also includes wine flights and additional wines by the glass. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 901 Cole St. (Wine Bar at 101 Carl St), (415) 566-3063.
Grandeho's Kamekyo: The friendly service and high-quality sushi rank Grandeho's as a favorite among connoisseurs. House specials are varied, including the shrimp clay pot, the sesame chicken and the Dynamite Roll -- tuna unagi and asparagus, deep fried. Sushi selections such as the Spider Roll -- fried soft-shell crab -- can be ordered at the bar, and sometimes the sushi chef will concoct a special creation on request. Grandeho's also offers grilled dinners such as beef teriyaki and salmon fillet, all of which come with soup, salad and rice. Finish it all off with plum wine or warm sake, of which there are several varieties available. The restaurant is small, so be prepared for a wait. 943 Cole St., (415) 759-8428.
Hama-Ko Sushi Restaurant: There's no sign outside to even hint that this spot is open for business, but Hama-Ko has built a loyal following since opening in 1983. The small sushi restaurant, considered by many to serve the best sushi in San Francisco, specializes in traditional sushi and sashimi -- no tempura or teriyaki, as proprietor Ted Kashiyama points out. Sea-urchin roe, Dungeness crab, toro (tuna belly), yellowtail and monkfish liver are all offered, and Hama-Ko also presents the traditional kaiseki, an artfully arranged array of exotic sushi choices. 108B Carl St., (415) 753-6808.
Kezar Bar and Restaurant: Though the casual decor and neighborhood clientele lend the Kezar a pub atmosphere, the food here surpasses pub-quality provender. Appetizers like baked portabella mushroom and main dishes like broiled ahi-tuna steak are reasonably priced. Behind the bar there is a selection of microbrews, as well as Italian, Californian and French wines by the glass or bottle. Photos of Cole Valley from the early 1900s, when dairies stood where houses and shops are today, hang on the walls in each of the two dining rooms. Kezar has a full bar open past dinnertime. 900 Cole St., (415) 681-7678.
Reverie Cafe: This place is famed for its Rosetta latte, a marbled mix of coffee and cream. The morning menu consist of muffins, scones, croissants, bagels and carrot cake. Nooks and outdoor seating in the garden allow for a peaceful, somewhat private setting. Indoors, Chet Baker plays, and there's subdued lighting from artsy lamps, but it's sufficient for reading. A small bookshelf toward the back holds novels, art books, encyclopedias and games like Scrabble, chess and backgammon. Seats out front are usually filled on weekends. 848 Cole St., (415) 242-0200.
Say Cheese: This is one of the premier specialty cheese shops in the Bay Area, amd the list of cheeses available reads like an international who's who in the dairy world. More common fare like havarti is offered, as well as more specialized flavors such as pesto pine-nut brie and the award-winning Humboldt Fog chevre. Ask Daniel for advice about which wine to serve with which cheese. Aside from cheese, Say Cheese offers sandwiches (fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil, for example), plus an eclectic selection of wines and an array of condiments, pastas and dried fruits and nuts. 856 Cole St., (415) 665-5020.
Tully's Coffee: Where Spinelli's, Cole Valley's favorite coffee stop, once stood, Tully's has taken over, serving espresso coffees, smoothies and fresh-squeezed orange juice, along with breakfast bagels or pastries. With just about five stools inside, a bit of room on the windowsills and a few tables and chairs set up outside, this is not the kind of cafe where patrons linger. Try Tully's special iced or hot caramel-macchiato coffee indulgence. 919 Cole St., (415) 753-2287. Zazie: Named after the 1961 Louis Malle comedy, Zazie has a longstanding tradition as a brunch venue, with gingerbread or buttermilk pancakes a favorite. The rest of the menu is extensive -- ostrich burger, vegetarian Mediterranean plate and fresh goat-cheese ravioli basquaise with red, green and yellow peppers, garlic and herbs. There's also a prix-fixe option for less than $20, including one of the restaurant's decadent homemade desserts, like the Zazie brownie with raspberry sauce or carmelized-apple bread pudding. Lattes are served in ceramic bowls, and there is a good selection of wines. For late risers, breakfast is available until 2:30 pm. There is often a wait for brunch, either for a table inside or in the garden setting out back. 941 Cole St., (415) 564-5332.
Egg + Urban Mercantile: Sells an eclectic array of housewares and gift items, like a wine rack made from industrial tubes for about $70 and a designer oil-and-vinegar set. Though some of the items are made by local artists, Egg also carries a variety of goods unique to other countries -- for instance, an egg rack from France to hold the ovoid orbs, and a British toast rack. Scattered about are books on faeries, forest gnomes and other odd subject matter. 85 Carl St., (415) 564-2248.
Four Corners Antiques: This shop opened in 1986 as part of a cooperative, and three vendors share the space, with each merchant's goods in a different section. It's not easy to tell where one ends and the other starts, but those with the patience to wander through Four Corners will find odds and ends such as a vintage clothes rack, encyclopedia sets, silver candlesticks, a framed James Dean photo, golden owl statues, jewelry, antique furniture, paintings, prints and crystal and vintage cookware. Bring cash or a check, since this place doesn't accept credit cards. 90 Parnassus Ave., (415) 753-6111.
Occasions Gifts Bath & Body Boutique: Most of the specialty soaps, bulk hand lotions and shampoos in Occasions are organic products. Natural honey soaps from Switzerland, perfume oils and floral essences and vegetarian lip colors are just some of the choices in this boutique. Also on the shelves are feng shui candles, hand-made Mayan bracelets and a host of other beauty products. 858 Cole St., (415) 731-0153.
Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy: Not your run of the mill pharmacy, the Pharmaca chain takes a holistic approach to health and well-being. The Cole Valley location offers aisles upon aisles of nutritional supplements, herbs, homeopathic remedies, and natural body care products. There is a pharmacy toward the back as well as an area up front with chairs and tables to sit and peruse the stacks of natural healing books. And if it's your mind that needs fixing, there is an assortment of meditation tapes. Pharmaca also hosts occasional evening lectures by herbalists, nutritionists, homeopaths, and the like. It's easy to lose a couple of hours in here. 925 Cole St., (415) 661-1216.
The Shop: Owner Lori Elder, who fashions custom jewelry for the entertainment industry, including the likes of Prince and Snoop Doggy Dogg, features gallery-style pieces in the Shop. Many of the artists represented actually live in Cole Valley, and it's possible to watch them create behind the counter, where Elder has set up a work table. The Shop showcases unique metal-art furniture, paintings, handmade jewelry, and other upbeat, unusual pieces. The Shop hosts occasional openings on weekends with jazz band performances. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. 113 Carl St., (415) 661-7467.
The Sword and Rose: A staple in the Bay Area pagan community for more than 16 years, the Sword and Rose carries all the essentials: books on tarot and occultism, plus incenses and bath oils, all made on the premises, and handmade jewelry and candles. An altar to Isis takes up part of one wall, while colored drip candles fill another. Two of the staff members offer tarot and astrology readings on a sliding-scale basis. Closed Mondays. 85 Carl St., (415) 681-5434.
Val de Cole: In this inexpensive wine shop, it's possible to find a bottle of Monterey chardonnay for under $10, a vintage merlot from Italy for $6, basic cigars imported from Chile and Honduras and beer and spirits as well. Champagne is a big seller at the shop. Though there are not too many upscale offerings, the selection is good for table wines or big parties. 906 Cole St., (415) 566-1808.